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How to treat acne skin, according to a dermatologist


Christine Giordano x Adeline Kikam

Dermatologists prescribe products to their patients all day, but have you ever wondered what they personally use? Welcome to Derm Diaries, a variety of places Dermatologists share their skin problems – and solutions – so you can steal secrets from their skincare routine.

I first met Adeline Kikam, DO, a dermatologist in Texas, when I stumbled across her Instagram page, @brownskinderm. She says she started it up to make sure that colored skin is brought into conversation about beauty, skin care and dermatology from a dermatologist’s perspective.

“Growing up as a black woman, I struggled a lot with acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and persistent acne,” said Dr. Kikam. “It is difficult to find skincare information that speaks to the distinctive characteristics of dark skin, especially in major lifestyle magazines, which are the source of almost everything about beauty and care. skin of the day. ”

Although she admits that “there have been many changes in improving access to skin care information for people of color,” she also shared that much of this information could be misleading and not wordy. a reliable source, that’s why she feels that way. It is very important for her to show her voice and expertise.

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Like many other dermatologists, it was Dr. Kikam’s skin care struggles – especially with acne – that inspired her to pursue a career in dermatology. “Over the years, acne gradually eroded my self-esteem, forcing me into my shell when I grew up. I didn’t have dermatological care so I mostly struggled with it.” That’s why her mission today is so simple: “I want to make people not only the best representation of themselves, but most importantly, I want them to really feel confident, comfort and beauty are not to blame for their skin, not by their definition. skin disease. “

The good news: Dr. Kikam’s acne has improved a lot since her teen years and luckily all her training and knowledge have allowed her to create one. “so I’m always one step ahead of a flare-up,” she said. Her right method no matter what skin type you are: Cleansing, exfoliating, nourishing, moisturizing and protecting. Keep scrolling to find all of her favorite products.

brownskinderm products

Adeline Kikam

She uses a detergent that contains salicylic acid.

“CeraVe’s SA Renewing SA Cleanser contains salicylic acid and is formulated to gently remove dirt without losing skin moisture. It also has notable ingredients such as ceramides to strengthen the moisture barrier. skin and niacinamide to soothe skin and improve pigmentation Salicylic acid penetrates deep into pores to dissolve sebum (skin’s natural oils), and removes dead cells that build up on the skin. for oily, acne-prone skin. “

CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser

She uses a very gentle cleanser when her skin becomes sensitive.

“When my skin is sensitive, I use Avène Ultra-Gentle Facial Cleanser, a cleanser-free cleanser with minimal ingredients to soothe and soothe the skin.”

Avene cleanser is extremely gentle

She uses micellar water to remove makeup.

“I love the look without makeup so I don’t apply anything on my face but on days when I wear makeup, I like to remove makeup with micellar water by La Roche Posay or Bioderma. I find micellar water very gentle, no – way Remove make-up with sandpaper. You can also use it to remove eye makeup. “

La Roche-Posay Micellar Water Ultra is for sensitive skin

She uses a hyaluronic acid serum for hydration.

“I follow my cleansing step with serum to allow better absorption into my bare skin. The weather is getting colder and drier so hyaluronic acid, keeping over 1000 times its weight in water and hyaluronic acid serum is essential for hydration.I like Vichy’s mineral hyaluronic acid 89 serum with trace minerals.It contains no oil, is fast and light absorbing I tend to use it instead for La Roche Posay’s Hyalu B5, one of my favorite moisturizing serums. Hyalu B5 is available over the counter, very effective and at an extremely affordable price. “

Vichy Mineral 89 Daily Skin Booster Serum and Moisturizer

La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Acid Serum

She still uses moisturizer even though she has acne.

“When it comes to moisturizers and moisturizers, Goodscience Beauty Hydrating is my brand of choice. It contains fatty acids to improve skin barrier function. It locks and prolongs activity. effects of hyaluronic acid in creams. “

Good Science Beauty Hydrating Face Cream


$ 68.00

“My other moisturizer is Bioderma’s Sensibio AR Moisturizer. If you have sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea, this cream is definitely right for you. It contains glycerin, a moisturizer. helps to improve moisture barrier and soothing ingredients such as allantoin and canola. “

Bioderma Sensibio AR Cream

She relied on mineral sunscreen for pimples.

“No skincare routine is complete without sun protection. I like physical sunscreens with zinc oxide and / or titanium dioxide that provide broad spectrum coverage against UVA / UVB ultraviolet rays. This is absolutely imperative when you have hyperpigmentation.However, as a person with brown skin, a physical sunscreen may not be aesthetically appealing, making the face look white. However, there are some good options for browns like me I like Venus Williams 100 percent broad spectrum mineral On Defense Sunscreen with SPF 30. When applied, it leaves no white streaks. on dark skin types like some. It is light and fragrance-free, is perfect for all skin types, especially those with sensitive skin types like rosacea, acne, eczema. “

EleVen by Venus Williams On-The-Defense Sunscreen SPF 30

“I also use Pipette’s 100% Broad Spectrum SPF 50. This is a lightweight, moisturizing, non-sticky and fast-absorbing sunscreen that has high aesthetics on all skin types, including dark skin types. No white skin, only amazing UV protection.If you have dry and sensitive skin I definitely recommend this brand.It has other great ingredients like squalane to replenish moisture and substance Antioxidant. “

Pipette Mineral Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 50

“Another one in my collection is, the Isdin Eryfotona Actinica Sunscreen SPF50. This is also a lightweight, non-greasy sunscreen with iron oxide that protects from visible light, the main culprit and exacerbation. hyperpigmentation, especially on dark skin types. “

ISDIN Eryfotona Actinica Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50+

She exfoliates twice a week but only at night.

“My nighttime routine is where I use more concentrated acid scrubbers. I exfoliate 1-2 times a week with Biopelle’s 10% glycolic acid cleanser. Glycolic acid, a water-soluble alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), removes dead cells to make skin more evenly colored and radiant, and unclog pores, which is great for acne-prone skin. For those who are unfamiliar with acids in skincare, you will be stinging the first few times you use the product but eventually it will stop as your skin adjusts to it. Recommend it to people with acne and oily skin but not those with sensitive skin as they may find it too hash. “

Biopelle exfoliating cleanser

She uses an antioxidant serum for brightening and protecting.

“I am a huge fan of topical vitamin C, a potent antioxidant in skincare that fights oxidative damage caused by free radicals caused by the sun, environmental pollution and It is also effective in improving hyperpigmentation, especially in darker skin types, by reducing the over-stimulation of melanin production to improve the appearance of spots. Black, I use ISDIN Melaclear Brightening Serum. This powerful serum contains vitamin C and phytic acid. “

ISDIN Melaclear Dark Spot Correcting Serum with Vitamin C

“I also turn this around with Vichy LiftActiv Peptide-C Ampoule with 10% pure Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, Phyto Peptide. It’s easy to use over the counter and affordable in comparison. with most vitamin c serum for my patients. “

Vichy LiftActiv Peptide-C Ampoule Anti-Aging Concentrate

She believes in retinoids as an all-must-have.

“To prevent acne recurrence and slow down the aging process, retinoids are an important part of my skincare routine. Retinoids are structural and functional derivatives of vitamin A. They promote circulation.” cells to keep pores from clogging and to help stimulate collage production to fight wrinkles and crow’s feet.What is especially important for people with darker skin like me is the ability of retinoids to treat both acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. By increasing the skin cell turnover, they facilitate melanin dispersion and improve hyperpigmentation. “

“I use a prescription retin A but some of my favorites over the counter are Obagi Retinol 1.0 and SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex. I use retinoids on alternate days. I don’t take vitamin c to avoid irritation. exceed.”

SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex 1.0

She also considers sleep a part of her skin care routine.

“The final step of the nighttime routine is definitely SLEEP: It is important that you spend enough time on this part as it is when your skin cells regenerate at their strongest with the help of great ingredients. Well, good sleep is scientifically sound, so sleep when you can! “

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